Natural and artificially created curly hair differ structurally: in the former, curvature is determined by the asymmetric cross-section of the follicle and the inhomogeneous distribution of disulfide bonds in the cortex; in the latter, it results from a controlled chemical breaking and reformation of those bonds. Hairswiss analyzes the molecular differences and their implications for product selection.
Author:
Echinacea purpurea: Phytochemical Chemistry, Hyaluronidase Inhibition and Role in Hair Cosmetology
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) contains caffeoylquinic acids (chicoric acid, MW 474 Da) and alkylamides (MW 200–350 Da) that inhibit hyaluronidase — the enzyme that degrades hyaluronic acid in the extracellular matrix of the perifollicular dermis. This anti-hyaluronidase activity preserves the integrity of the extracellular matrix of the dermal papilla. Hairswiss analyzes the phytochemical composition and mechanism of action in hair cosmetology.
Hair Lamination: Chemistry of the Protective Film, Mechanism of Action and Professional Guide
Hair lamination is a cosmetic technique that deposits on the hair fiber a film of film-forming polymers — primarily chitosan, hydrolyzed proteins and cationic polysaccharides — adsorbed by electrostatic attraction onto the negatively charged cuticle. An additive and reversible technique, chemically distinct from nanoplasty and keratinizing treatments. Hairswiss analyzes the mechanisms and active ingredients.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: Chemistry of Peptides, Site of Action and Role in Hair Conditioning
Hydrolyzed wheat proteins are peptides of 300 to 5,000 Da obtained by acid or enzymatic hydrolysis of gluten. Their molecular weight determines the site of action: fractions 1,000 Da adsorb onto the cuticle. Rich in glutamine and proline, they reduce differential porosity and improve fiber elasticity. Hairswiss analyzes their chemistry and mechanisms of action.
Guarana (Paullinia cupana): Chemistry of Methylxanthines and Mechanism of Action on the Hair Follicle
Guarana (Paullinia cupana) is a plant-based caffeine source at high concentration (2.5–5.8% dry weight) — 2 to 5 times more than coffee beans. In hair cosmetology, its methylxanthines inhibit phosphodiesterases (PDE), increasing cAMP in follicular matrix cells and stimulating their proliferation. Hairswiss analyzes the biochemical composition and mechanism of action on the hair follicle.
Polyquaternium: Chemistry of Cationic Polymers, Mechanism of Action and Role in Hair Care
Polyquaterniums are water-soluble cationic polymers whose positive charge allows them to adsorb electrostatically onto the negatively charged hair cuticle. Polyquaternium-7, -10, -32, -37, -55: each number designates a distinct chemical architecture with different film-forming, antistatic and conditioning properties. Hairswiss analyzes their molecular mechanisms and how to identify them in an INCI list.
Capillary Oxygen Therapy: Follicle Biochemistry, Vasodilatory Actives and Professional Analysis
Capillary oxygen therapy is rooted in the vascular physiology of the hair follicle and the biochemistry of mitochondrial oxidative phosphorylation. Vasodilatory actives — menthol (TRPM8 receptors), caffeine (PDE inhibition) and niacinamide (NAD⁺ precursor) — indirectly improve follicular oxygenation by increasing perifollicular microcirculation. Hairswiss analyzes the molecular mechanisms and scientific limits of these protocols.
Hairspray: Chemistry of Film-Forming Resins, Hold Mechanism and Professional Guide
Hairspray is a dispersion of film-forming resins — primarily VP/VA copolymers or acrylates — in alcoholic or aqueous suspension. On drying, these resins polymerize on the hair surface and create a rigid network that holds the style. Hairswiss analyzes the exact chemistry, the differences between gas-propelled and eco pump formulations, and professional selection criteria based on fiber type.
Hair Mousse: Chemistry of Film-Forming Foam, Mechanism of Action and Professional Guide
Hair mousse is an air-water emulsion stabilized by foaming surfactants, whose action relies on the deposition of film-forming polymers on the hair fiber during drying. Its effectiveness in terms of volume, hold and definition depends directly on the polymer type, its concentration and the presence of plasticizers. Hairswiss analyzes the exact chemistry and professional selection criteria.
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate: Chemistry, Role and Use in Hair Care Formulations
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a non-ionic surfactant with dual function: wetting agent and hydrophilic emulsifier (HLB ~10–12) derived from coconut oil by ethoxylation with 7 ethylene oxide chains. Widely used in sulfate-free shampoos as a mild wetting agent, it improves the distribution of anionic surfactants without increasing their cuticular irritation. Hairswiss analyzes its molecular structure and formulatory role.