Dimethicone is a linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) whose viscosity — expressed in centistokes (cSt) — directly determines its behavior on the hair fiber: light fractions (50–200 cSt) partially penetrate the cuticle; heavy fractions (>1,000 cSt) form an occlusive surface film. Hairswiss analyzes its molecular chemistry, deposition mechanism and the controversies surrounding accumulation on the fiber.
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CODE ZERO hair interpreters®
Echinacea purpurea: Phytochemical Chemistry, Hyaluronidase Inhibition and Role in Hair Cosmetology
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) contains caffeoylquinic acids (chicoric acid, MW 474 Da) and alkylamides (MW 200–350 Da) that inhibit hyaluronidase — the enzyme that degrades hyaluronic acid in the extracellular matrix of the perifollicular dermis. This anti-hyaluronidase activity preserves the integrity of the extracellular matrix of the dermal papilla. Hairswiss analyzes the phytochemical composition and mechanism of action in hair cosmetology.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: Chemistry of Peptides, Site of Action and Role in Hair Conditioning
Hydrolyzed wheat proteins are peptides of 300 to 5,000 Da obtained by acid or enzymatic hydrolysis of gluten. Their molecular weight determines the site of action: fractions 1,000 Da adsorb onto the cuticle. Rich in glutamine and proline, they reduce differential porosity and improve fiber elasticity. Hairswiss analyzes their chemistry and mechanisms of action.
Guarana (Paullinia cupana): Chemistry of Methylxanthines and Mechanism of Action on the Hair Follicle
Guarana (Paullinia cupana) is a plant-based caffeine source at high concentration (2.5–5.8% dry weight) — 2 to 5 times more than coffee beans. In hair cosmetology, its methylxanthines inhibit phosphodiesterases (PDE), increasing cAMP in follicular matrix cells and stimulating their proliferation. Hairswiss analyzes the biochemical composition and mechanism of action on the hair follicle.
Hairspray: Chemistry of Film-Forming Resins, Hold Mechanism and Professional Guide
Hairspray is a dispersion of film-forming resins — primarily VP/VA copolymers or acrylates — in alcoholic or aqueous suspension. On drying, these resins polymerize on the hair surface and create a rigid network that holds the style. Hairswiss analyzes the exact chemistry, the differences between gas-propelled and eco pump formulations, and professional selection criteria based on fiber type.
Hair Mousse: Chemistry of Film-Forming Foam, Mechanism of Action and Professional Guide
Hair mousse is an air-water emulsion stabilized by foaming surfactants, whose action relies on the deposition of film-forming polymers on the hair fiber during drying. Its effectiveness in terms of volume, hold and definition depends directly on the polymer type, its concentration and the presence of plasticizers. Hairswiss analyzes the exact chemistry and professional selection criteria.